With all the excellent BBQ restaurants in Memphis proper, many people wouldn’t consider taking a trip to the ‘burbs for some pulled pork. However, the Germantown Commissary is definitely worth the drive for those living downtown or midtown. Playboy magazine even named it one of the top ten barbeque restaurants in the country, referring to it as “the Memphis area’s king of ribs.”
Located in the Old Germantown neighborhood at 2290 Germantown Rd in an old country store, the Commissary has been putting out quality ‘que for more than twenty-five years now. The restaurant appears deceptively small, but holds a decent number of seats – enough so that we had only a very short wait for a table for two during a weekday lunch rush. The décor recalls the buildings past as a country store – almost like a localized, authentic version of a Cracker Barrel. Service was relaxed and informal while remaining prompt and courteous. We had several people check in with us to make sure we were being taken care of while waiting for a table and our waitress was always on time with a refill. The menu says that they try to serve food fast, not fast food – both were true. We had our food within a few minutes of ordering and the quality was outstanding. As advertised, everything seemed home made.
I had a regular pulled pork sandwich (you can get it either pulled or chopped,) which came with a side of slaw, beans, a pickled pepperoncini pepper and a deviled egg. I also ordered a tamale on the side, dressed with chili, cheese, and jalapenos. The tamale was amazing. It was smothered in chili and cheese, and the warm cornmeal filling was savory and slightly spicy. I would definitely add another one of these on to any meal I had here. The deviled egg was good but not particularly noteworthy. The beans and slaw however were text book examples. The beans were an ambrosial mix of sweet, spicy, and savory. Perfectly tender, with generous chunks of pulled pork strewn throughout. The slaw was fresh and crisp, with a creamy, sweet dressing with just a hint of vinegary tang. Sometimes BBQ joints put so much emphasis on the meat, that the sides don’t get the attention they deserve: this was definitely not the case here at the Commissary. The pork itself had no problem living up to the excellence of the sides. It was tender and flavorful with little to no fat. The sauce appeared to have a strong molasses influence, but was not overly sweet. It comes in both mild and hot, although to my palate the hot didn’t have too much heat to it.
My wife had the smoked ham sandwich served on a French roll, which usually comes with lettuce, mayo, and pickles. She opted for it plain, served hot and then topped it at the table with a mixture of the regular and hot bbq sauces. While her variation wasn’t what was intended by the menu, it was incredibly delicious. The ham was thin-sliced and had a great smoky flavor. When mixed with the two sauces on the fresh bread it all melted in your mouth. She subbed potato salad for her beans but we were both disappointed in it. In contrast to the excellent beans and slaw, the potato salad was extraordinarily bland. The consistency was almost mashed, which I enjoyed, but the flavor itself was lacking. Not enough mustard, and definitely not enough other flavors or textures to make it stand out. Really the only disappointment of the meal. Desert on the other hand, was a rousing success.
The lemon ice box pie was perfection—a cool, slightly tart layer of lemon custard topped with meringue. The banana pudding transcended its simple ingredients. It was thick, gooey and stuffed with fresh, ripe bananas and soft vanilla wafers. Both were so good I had a hard time picking a favorite.
Overall, I was very happy with my trip to the Germantown Commissary. In a town of great BBQ, it stood out as being one of the best. I didn’t get to try the ribs, but based on the quality of everything else, I am anxiously awaiting my chance - the all you can eat rib deal for $22.95 is mighty tempting. Final rating: 4/5 stars.
Rating breakdown:
1 star: bad / 2 stars: average / 3 stars: above average / 4 stars: excellent / 5 stars: eat there right now!
Since things can vary so much in the restaurant biz from night to night and dish to dish, I’ve put together a handy review of different internet opinion forums to give a bigger picture for the curious diner. If you’re feeling talkative – why not stake your claim for what YOU think is the best ‘que in Memphis in the comments?
Urban Spoon: 86% of 550 people like it
Yelp: 4.5/5 stars based on 33 reviews
Road Food: 4/5 stars based on 8 reviews, 5/5 stars based on editor review
